Do you know what “double cleansing” really is?

Have you ever wondered WHY you need to do double cleansing?

Today, I’m going to show you step by step how to double cleanse. It is the method that I’ve been using over the past 20 years. It is, of course, the Japanese way as I am born & raised in Japan 🙂

Japanese women have ALWAYS known the importance of cleansing because it affects the skin condition in the long run. The knowledge has long been passed down for generations and it was the case for me too.

I can say the method has greatly helped to maintain the youthfulness of my skin!

In the guide, you will learn exactly how Japanese women do double-cleansing.

If you master it, you would maintain youthful look like Japanese women for long!

The Ultimate Double Cleansing Guide

1. What Is Double Cleansing?

In Japan, double cleansing means there are two steps involved in the cleansing routine.

STEP 1

First, remove makeup using a makeup specific cleansing product

(oil-based is most popular in Japan).

STEP 2

Then straight after Step 1, cleanse the skin with a face wash product (foams).

Many people think it is called double cleansing because you wash your face twice, but double cleansing only applies when you wear makeup AND need to remove that first before washing the face properly. Simply washing face twice is NOT double cleansing.

We see removing makeup and the step for clearing blackheads or old cells as two different things and many Japanese women have different products for each step.

The 2nd cleansing step is particularly important to enhance the natural power of the skin’s functions.

Whether you get your cleansing method right or not can determine your skin’s future.

Usually, the packaging of cleansing products would tell you whether or not you need to do double cleansing.

If it says:

• It is for makeup removal only,  →  double cleansing NEEDED.

• It also has a function of removing makeup as well as washing off pollutants, clearing clogged pores and removing dead skin cells,  →  double cleansing NOT always necessary.

It has become standard to do double cleansing over the years, but some Japanese women are NOT keen on double cleansing as it can strip the natural oil of the skin, which leads to dehydration and ageing.

They instead use products that have both functions but are designed to moisturise after cleansing. There are many products that combine both steps in Japan and high quality!

The most important thing is to listen to your skin and make sure you do not over-wash.

This means to:

Choose the right products for YOUR SKIN TYPE

Change the types of cleansing products depending on YOUR SKIN CONDITION

Skip the second cleansing IF already very clean to AVOID over-washing

So, then is double cleansing really necessary?!

2. Is Double Cleansing Necessary?

Whether you do double cleansing or not, most important is to remove makeup and dirt which is made by oils in makeup products.

Especially sunscreens and makeup base are quite heavy and difficult to cleanse, so you want to cleanse properly.

However, the 1st stage of cleansing tends NOT to treat clogged pores or stubborn blackheads.

This is why you may need double-cleansing.

In a nutshell, 1st cleansing and 2nd cleansing have a different purpose 🙂

Each step is targeting different types of dirt to remove.

Let’s now take a closer look.

Below are the reasons why double cleansing is thought to be necessary.

1st Step Cleansing Products

They tend to contain oils, and those oils have the power of dissolving the similar substances like the sebum our skin produces and the oil-like ingredients in makeup. The oils dissolve and remove the oil type of dirt.

2nd Step Cleansing Products

They contain mainly surfactants and are foamy, and are designed to cleanse dirt like old/dead cells, sweat, and pollutants.

Below is a chart for your reference!

2nd cleansing clears residue from the 1st cleansing and prepares the skin for the next steps of the routine. If you visualize the process, it looks like below:

EVEN IF you use the right cleansing oil to remove makeup, it can be challenging to cleanse thoroughly simply because oil and water do not mix well!

So you may need to wash for the second time to make sure no residue is left.

The 2nd step is to remove any other type of dirt other than makeup so that the skin is clean and ready to absorb essence, serums, and creams.

Makeup residue or any dirt from the skin left can prevent ingredients of skincare products from penetrating the skin.

Japanese women have always known the importance of cleansing and followed the two steps to make sure that the skin is ready for the steps coming afterwards.

When I was in junior high school, my mother told me to start washing my face properly, and I’ve always paid very close attention to this step ever since. And it’s been about 20 years.

So, double cleansing is necessary.

BUT! 

Japanese women may change the frequency of doing double cleansing depending on their skin condition and seasons.

Are you now wondering “Do I have to do double cleansing EVERY DAY?!”

Good question 🙂

3. When Not To Do Double Cleansing

There are times when you want to AVOID double-cleansing.

That is when: 

*  You are suffering from dehydration.

      →  You should have a break from double cleansing.

*  You have acne or some skin concerns.

       →  Double cleansing can cause further problems, so it’s best not to do double-cleansing.

*  You are not wearing makeup.

       →  You could skip the first cleansing and focus on the second part. 

This applies to mornings too.

It is essential to listen to your skin and know your skin very well so that you can develop a cleansing method that suits YOUR skin.

Your skin changes depending on the season or age. So should your routine or the products you use too.

Now wondering “how am I supposed to do this??”

I suggest the following!

Take your time and really get to know your skin, and tailor your cleansing method to suit YOUR skin type and needs 🙂

4. How To Know The True Characteristics Of Your Skin

Before The Test

Since all of our skin cells are turned over every 28 days as the most superficial cells are replaced by new ones, it is best to take 28 days to test. (This life cycle is faster for infants but slows down throughout our lifetime.)

To get optimal results, follow the 3 rules below during the test:

1.  Make sure you do this test when your days are regular with daily activities. Skin is sensitive, and its condition can change if you are travelling and exposed to the constant change of weather and environment.

2.  Try to maintain the same time to wake up/go to bed. Staying up too late definitely affects the condition of the skin.

3.  Try not to change the products you use daily. Stick to a set of products.

How To Wash During The Test

If you’ve never done double cleansing, I would NOT recommend starting it straight away. It can strip natural oil too much, which would lead to dryness, acne, and wrinkles.

Try to find out if double cleansing is right for your skin type first.  (This is unless your skin is naturally oily and you’re prone to develop acne without double cleansing)

Rules

Start with removing one thing from your current cleansing method as follows:

*   Use the first cleanser (makeup remover) only if you are double cleansing and do the second face wash with just lukewarm water

*   If you’re currently using hot water, set the water to 30～35℃ (86 – 95°F)

*   If you have oily skin, double cleanse T zone only and wash the rest with lukewarm water.

After 28 days of this test,

YES! to double cleansing if

If your skin has got oily or more oily, this means you may need double-cleansing. Try double cleansing for the next month to see if it suits you.

NO! to double cleansing if

Your skin has less trouble. This means double cleansing is too much for your skin and NOT ALWAYS necessary.

TIP 🙂

If you want to try a new makeup remover or cleanser for double cleansing, change the makeup remover first (1st part of double cleansing) and stick to the current face wash (2nd part of double cleansing)  – If you change both at the same time, it will confuse the skin, and the results would be misleading.

5. How To Choose The Right Products To Use

Now that you know when you need double cleansing and when you don’t, the next step is to find the right products. If you are not sure if the cleansing/face wash products you are using are right for you, I can guide you below 🙂

I separate makeup removers and face cleansers.

Makeup Removers

There are 3 key points here.

1. Think of Eye Makeup and the Rest Separate

You may often wear quite a lot of makeup around the eyes, but you don’t have to match the strength of cleansing to eye make up. You might think you need a strong cleanser to remove all of it, but this would be too straining on the skin.

For eyes, use eye-makeup specific products and gently and carefully remove. Eye areas have thinner skin, and it’s very sensitive, so it is crucial to treat it with TLC.

Cleansing eyes separately also would prevent the glitter in the eye shadow(s) or mascara from spreading all over the face, which can cause dullness to the skin.

2. Choose a Type that Matches the Strength of Your BASE Makeup

In principle, choose a type depending on HOW MUCH you are wearing.

Below is a guideline for you to choose.

Oil, Gel, Liquid

→ If you are using a waterproof type of base/foundation/sunscreen or liquid type foundation

Cream, Milk

→ If you are NOT using waterproof

Have you ever experienced any difficulty in removing waterproof based makeup with cream or milk cleansers? Did you have to wash twice or even more?

Cream or milk type cleansers do NOT have the same strength as oil or liquid gel, so you may end up putting more power and pressure, and it can damage the skin.

Conversely, using oil or liquid-based cleansers to remove light makeup would unnecessarily strip off too much natural oil of the skin and cause dryness and dehydration.

3. For Products that Have Both Functions of Removing Makeup and Cleansing Face

With these products, you can quickly remove makeup and cleanse face in one go. 

For this type of cleansers, these are 3 points you want to note!

[1]  Still Separate Eye Makeup. Use Eye-Specific Cleansers

For this, I’ve been using Bioderma Micellar Water – Sensibio H2O ever since it was introduced to me when I was a model. It is so gentle and respects the fragility of the eye area.

courtesy of brand

I’ve been using it for the past 15 years and I won’t live without it! It’s also perfect for sensitive skin too.

Highly recommended 🙂

[2]  Use Both Functioning Cleanser to Cleanse the Rest

I personally use this type of oil cleanser from a Japanese brand called Fancl (the image below). Their oil cleanser has been loved by Japanese women ever since it was first introduced in 1997.

It is the No.1 cleansing product of all time in Japan. A bottle gets sold every 4 seconds according to the brand’s site! You can get one on Amazon to try this amazing product 🙂

courtesy of brand

This type of cleansers can come in handy when you are exhausted after a long day and sometimes cannot be bothered with double cleansing!

[3]  An EXCELLENT Option For Sensitive Skin

Why? It’s because with double cleansing, you could be over-washing your face and this leads your skin to become sensitive.

Combining the both steps into one would help your skin to keep the skin’s natural moisture barrier.

Face Cleansers

I repeat!

It is vital to get the 1st part of cleansing right first. This would decide whether or not your skin needs the second part of cleansing.

Let’s say you have the right makeup remover, but your skin feels a little tight or dry, this can mean either of the two things below.

*  Your skin is actually NOT suited to double-cleansing.

*  Your face wash in the 2nd step is too strong for your skin type.

If your face wash is too powerful, your skin gets dehydrated as it strips off all it can from the surface. In this case, it is not double cleansing but the face wash that is causing the dryness.

Dry skin sometimes can be resolved by changing cleansers (how you remove makeup & wash face) for this reason.

Face wash products come in many forms (gels, creams, foams, micellar waters, lotions, soaps, etc.)

What’s most important is that your face wash

* Feels gentle on your skin.

* Cleanses thoroughly without drying skin.

* Does not feel greasy after rinsing.

* Is ideally fragrance & irritant-free.

6. How To Do Double Cleanse

After you get the right products, now you need to get the method itself right 😉

STEP 1  Removing Makeup

(+ washing face if you are using a combined one)

① Remove Eye Makeup & Lipsticks First

Soak a cotton pad with your chosen cleanser. Press it on eyes and mouth for about 10 seconds and remove the makeup gently.

If the cotton pad gets dirty already, use a new one to repeat the same. Don’t use the same cotton over and over again.

Don’t be obsessed with removing it entirely and rubbing with too much pressure.  Be gentle, so you don’t damage the skin. As long as the heavy part of the eye makeup is removed, you can move onto next.

② Put Your Cleansing Product In The Palm Of Your Hand

Make sure your hands are clean before putting your cleanser onto the palm! If the packaging says “with dry hands”, make sure wash your hands first and dry with a clean towel first. Only put the cleansing product into the clean palm.

Some products are OK with wet hands, but I would recommend dry hands.

This is because when your cleansing product gets mixed with water, the effectiveness of the product may lessen, and it can make you rub unnecessary thinking like “oh it is not working”. This is not good for the skin.

③ Apply In The Order Of T-Zone → U-Zone

Start with the T zone (forehead & nose) where the skin is thicker, and the keys are to massage gently and NOT to take too long a time. Never rub harshly.

④ Next, Apply Onto The Eye/Mouth Zone and The Rest

Move onto the U-zone (cheeks, chin, mouth) and the eye area. Same as T zone, massage gently but for the eye/mouth zone, a few seconds would be enough as you’ve already removed the majority in the previous step ①.

⑤ Rinse With Lukewarm Water (like human skin temperature)

Hot water will strip the natural oil from the skin that is actually needed for healthy skin and cause dryness. Cold water, on the other hand, will solidify the cleansing product, and it would be hard to remove the excess sebum or dirt.

That’s why it’s best to use lukewarm water (30～35℃/86 – 95°F). I found it’s best for the skin when you feel like “ it is so MILD like human skin temperature and feels so gentle on the skin.”

STEP 2  Washing (Cleansing) Face

① Lather Your Face Wash Well In The Palm

The key is to add water little by little when lathering. Make it like big whip cream. If it’s hard to make a big foam, I recommend using a face washing net (foaming net).

This is very Japanese, but many Japanese women have long been using it. My mother was using it all the time, and she introduced this to me when I was about 15. It works really well!

② Apply The Foam In The Order Of T-Zone → U-Zone Like Drawing A Circle

Apply the cleanser onto your face gently. Start from T Zone where it tends to be oilier and go onto U zone (cheeks and face line).

Use a circular motion while ensuring that you don’t put too much pressure. It’s like letting the foam to absorb as you massage. If you rub too much, it will strip off too much of natural skin oil, and it would, in turn, produce more oil so please be gentle.

③ Rinse With Lukewarm Water

As is the case with the cleansing step 1, make sure to use lukewarm water (30 – 35℃/86 – 95°F), not too hot. Hot water will dry the skin out. Also, cold water is not recommended either as you need to keep the temperature consistent with the previous step.

A sudden drop or increase in water temperature is damaging to the skin.

④ Gently Dry Your Face Using a Clean Facial Towel which Feels Very Soft On The Skin.

Ideally, you want to have a separate towel that you only use on your face. Your skin is particularly sensitive right after cleansing with so it is vital to treat the skin with extra care.

7. Summary & Tips

Hope you enjoyed the post and could use the guide to find a perfect way to cleanse your face based on your skin type 🙂

Here is a summary for you!

Most important points are:

— Know your true characteristics of your skin

— Choose the right type of makeup remover & face wash for your skin

— Separate eye makeup and the rest

— Use only lukewarm water (NEVER rinse while having a shower)

— Tailor the steps based on your skin condition or seasons

You would need:

— Eye makeup remover(s)

— Makeup remover(s) for the rest of the face (oil, gel, cream or milk)

— Face wash(es) that suits your skin type

* Plurals because you may need a different type depending on your skin condition or seasons

Let me know how you get on by leaving a comment below 🙂

(I know the guide is long and a lot to digest!)

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