Did you know that the first serum called R.C Liquid was introduced to the world by a Japanese brand called KOSÉ (now is a global brand) in 1975?  It was revolutionary and changed the concept of skincare around the world.

 

Yes, it was Japanese!

I’m a born and bred Japanese girl and have been practising the traditional Japanese skincare routine since the age of 13. It’s been 25 years so I know the ins and outs of Japanese skincare routine steps.

J-Beauty is a little under the radar compared to K-Beauty but the Japanese have always strived to produce innovative and quality products and introduced huge global brands like Shiseido , Kanebo (incl. Sensai), and SK-ll to name a few. 

 

So, are you curious about the real Japanese skincare steps? Have you ever wondered how Japanese women manage to look younger than their age?

 

In this post, I am going to introduce the typical Japanese skincare steps I’ve always followed in my long skincare journey. It covers all the traditional steps.

 

I’ve been doing this over the past 25 years being Japanese, so there’s some truth in it 😉  And I look like below today.

 

 

My friends and colleagues often kindly ask: 

“What do you really do? What’s the secret? How do you manage to NOT change much for years?”

 

If I have to answer the question, it will be my skincare and diet. They are the things I always feel I do differently when compared with Western people.

 

I started my skincare journey when I was about 13 years old with my mother. It started with cleansing my face properly rather than following the typical steps. It was much simpler than what I do now (well I’m 38 now so need more steps for sure!), but my mother made sure I washed my face in the right way since I was very little.

 

So, are you now ready to learn the Japanese skincare routine?! 

Depending on your age, skin types and concerns, certain steps can be skipped or added but don’t worry. I will get to that in the guide below!

 

 

INTRO – What Japanese Women Focus

 

 

Japanese women are skincare savvy from an EARLY AGE.

 

In Japan, having beautiful, flawless skin is almost a national obsession.

 

It is also etiquette and a sign of elegance.

 

There is an overwhelming amount of information on skincare in magazines, media, publication and on the internet in Japanese. Girls are exposed to this from a very early age. You simply cannot escape from it.

 

It is NOT a recent phenomenon but rather a tradition, and they are fundamentally focusing on a few things which aid maintaining the youthful look.

 

Their focus:

 

* Cleanse the skin properly to boost skin metabolism

* Moisturise the skin to enhance skin barrier

* Protect the skin from the sun to avoid premature ageing

 

They go to great lengths on anti-ageing skincare THROUGHOUT their lives.

So what are the actual steps?

Let’s dive into it!

 

The Typical Steps

 

 

Throughout my teenage years, my mother taught me her skincare techniques and passed on an abundance amount of knowledge on not only skincare but health & diet to me. Anything that can help you to stay healthy, young and beautiful really.

 

I’m still practising all I learned from her to this day and always will 🙂

 

Following the right steps is essential to maximise the benefits of each skincare product in every step. I customise depending on my skin’s condition, but for this post, I list all the Japanese skincare routine steps with a full program so that after reading this post you can start tailoring.

 

 copyright: cremescoop.comcopyright: cremescoop.com

 

 

STEP 1. PREP | ☼/☽

 

 

My skincare steps ALWAYS start from having a shower and/or a bath.

If neither is possible, I use a hot towel instead for this step.

 

Before starting cleansing, I prep my face by giving it kind of steams by having a shower/bath or using a hot towel to soften the skin and open the pores.

When the skin softens and the pores open, it is easier to remove makeup, dirt or any impurities.

Now, ready to start cleansing (or double-cleansing)!

 

❣️ → If you’d like to learn about double cleansing, I have a dedicated post on this topic. Click here to read “The Ultimate Guide to Double Cleansing by J-Beauty“

 

 

STEP 2. CLEANSING [1] | ☽

 

– Removing Makeup (Night only)

 

 

It is essential to remove makeup before going to sleep.

 

NEVER go to bed with makeup on!

 

If left on:

 

• The residue will clog pores, resulting in acne
• It will damage skin cells
• It will prevent the skin from rejuvenating during sleep

 

Your skin then gets dull and dehydrated, and as a result, the ageing process can speed up.

 

Now, the most important rule for this step is to:

 

Use a cleanser that IS designed to remove makeup!

 

Oil type cleansers are very popular in Japan.

They contain oils that have the power of dissolving the similar substances like the sebum our skin produces and the oil-like ingredients in makeup. The oils dissolve and remove the oil type dirt, i.e., makeup.

 

With a regular face wash, it will NOT remove makeup properly and you also often end up rubbing the skin as you find it hard to remove. It can damage the skin in the long run.

 

Another important thing is to:

 

Use a SEPARATE makeup remover FOR EYES!

 

The eye area has much thinner skin and is very delicate. So you want to remove eye makeup gently.

 

Choosing the right cleanser to remove makeup can change decide the future of the skin.

It literally makes it or breaks it!

 

 

STEP 3. CLEANSING [2] | ☼/☽

– Washing Face

Night

 

This step is so-called the second step of the double-cleansing technique, and there are two things this step accomplishes for your skin.

 

The purposes:

 

*  Rinse off any residue left from the first cleansing

*  Cleanse pollutants/impurities, clearing clogged sebum & blackheads

(which you cannot cleanse with makeup removers)

 

The key is to make the face wash like big whip cream and let the big foam absorb all the dirt WITHOUT rubbing the face much. Add water little by little when lathering to create a big foam.

 

Thinking “which one is best for me?”

 

When choosing a type of form,  it’s best to focus on how your skin feels AFTER washing the face. You want to feel the skin is clean and soft but still moisturised.

 

There are many forms of face washes (powder, foaming cream, milk, etc.).

 

 

Morning

 

Your skin gets dirty from room dust and sweating during sleep. That’s why morning cleansing is recommended before putting any skincare products and makeup.

 

The purposes:

 

* Clear any dirt or sweat during sleep

* Prep for the morning skincare

 

Clean skin can absorb the essence, serum and cream BETTER and also makeup sits BETTER too.

 

 

J-Beauty Tip:

 

Be flexible! You don’t always have to wash your face in the morning. Sometimes your skin is sensitive and may not need it. Check your skin condition in the morning and decide to cleanse properly or just wash your face with water only.

 

 

STEP 4. EXFOLIATOR | ☽

 

Once or twice a week, you want to exfoliate the skin to enhance the skin’s turnover.

I’ve been using this cult Japanese exfoliator for over two decades.

courtesy of brand

 

By removing the dead skin cells, skincare products also can penetrate deeper into your skin and can work better. It should be maximum a few times a week so that your skin does not get spoiled and lose its natural strength.

I would recommend avoiding using a brush or washcloth.

 

(MY SECRET)

The one I use (the pic above) can achieve being harsh on the skin effortlessly. This cult Japanese exfoliator is extremely gentle and yet it works wonders.

 

Exfoliation should be seen as gently helping along your skin’s natural skin turnover process so that your skin glows.

 

Rubbing can strip off too much of the skin layer and can be damaging to the skin.

 

I’ve always followed this rule to NOT use any brush or cloth on my skin but my own hands. I don’t use towels to wipe or scrub my face either, but to only absorb water on my skin. Having always done this, my skin complexion has not really changed much since my 20’s.

 

 

STEP 5. TONER (optional) | ☼/☽

 

In Japan, toners are rarely used and are not the main focus of the routine. Japanese women mmight use a toner very occasionally when they do not have any other option like when travelling abroad.

 

Japanese women set the skin tone in the cleansing steps and the lotion step (step 7).

 

BUT!

I use a toner in the morning sometimes.

I skip the washing face step and instead use a toner to freshen up. I use either Bioderma’s H2O or Sisley’s Floral Toning Lotion for dry & sensitive skin for this (the picture below).

  courtesy of brand

In Europe where I live, water is very hard compared to that of Japan and it can be harsh on my skin. So I use a toner occasionally to avoid too much hard water on my face because it dries my skin out.

 

Good toners can cleanse the face and improve skin complexion without relying on face washes.

 

It prepares my skin very well for my skincare products to work, and I love it!

 

 

STEP 6. BOOSTER (optional) | ☼/☽

 

This step has yet to become the norm in the Japanese skincare routine.

More and more Japanese women are becoming aware of the power of boosters, and some Japanese women definitely use it.

 

Personally, my skin dramatically has improved since I started to introduce this step to my routine.

 

I use the Ultimate Power Infusion Concentrate Serum from Shiseido and I absolutely LOVE it!

 

courtesy of brand

 

My skin was quite dehydrated despite the ritual before, but I no longer suffer from dry skin!

 

The purpose:

 

* Prepare the skin so that it better absorbs skincare products in the next steps.

 

A good booster will control the ph level and soften the skin in a way that your skincare products can penetrate BETTER. It enhances the skincare routine 🙂

 

STEP 7. LOTION | ☼/☽

 

Japanese women swear by lotions.

 

Lotions are called Keshosui (化粧水) in Japanese. Without lotions, Japanese skincare routines will never be complete. Everyone LOVES using it.

 

My grandmothers had one, and so did my mother. All my old friends young and old. Absolutely everyone!

 

I might’ve not needed other products like serums and creams when I was very young, but I was already using lotion at least in my teenage years as my mom introduced the concept to me.

 

It is an ABSOLUTE MUST step for them, and this has not changed for many generations.

 

This step using lotions is equivalent to (although NOT quite the same)

 

* In Korea:   Using softeners, or essence

* In the West:   Using toners

 

A Japanese lotion is NOT the same as a western toner and is NOT meant to be confused with a moisturiser either. There are many types of lotions in Japan, and they have multiple functions.

 

The primary purpose is to:

 

* Soften the skin and moisturise right after cleansing.

 

It also helps prep the skin for serums to soak up even more in the next step. You can use a cotton pad to apply, but I use the technique my mother taught me.

 

❣️(this is how I do it)

I make sure my hands are clean before pouring lotion onto my palm. I then warm up the lotion in the hands and press it onto the skin very gently for a while, imagining the lotion being soaked up by the skin. As my skin soaks up, I imagine my skin is absorbing all the good things from the lotion.

 

It is a ritual and a serene moment.

I absolutely love this step and never skip 😉

 

✤ Related post✤  What is Japanese Lotion? An Absolute MUST Step in the Japanese Skincare Routine

 

 

STEP 8. MASKS | ☽

 

Masks are seen as a special treatment focusing on a particular concern rather than a part of the daily skincare routine.

 

They contain full of active ingredients and there come in a variety of forms from a sheet, cream, gel to clay. You choose one depending on YOUR skin’s needs at the moment to combat ageing!

 

The purposes are to:

 

* Combat particular skin concerns

* Enhance the natural ability of the skin

 

The norm in Japan is to apply a mask once or twice a week.

 

It is because:

 

Wearing it every day would spoil the skin and also would be tough on the skin in the long run.

 

I only wear a few times a week max to NOT spoil the skin but rather to enhance my natural skin’s ability. Sometimes, I don’t use any in a week to train my skin to function as best as it can on its own.

 

I saw my mum doing a mask that way too (often a sheet or clay mask) twice a week. As a child, I was thinking “what the heck happened to her face with the white sheet on her face. It looks like a ghost !!” 🙂

 

When wearing a mask, it is important to follow the instruction.

Don’t leave it too long thinking the skin would absorb more!

It would dry the skin out if you did that.

 

The mask will start absorbing the water in the skin after it already absorbed all the good ingredients, and the mask is now almost dry.

 

So,  the rule is:

* Follow the instruction of the mask(s) of your choice & do it 1-2 times a week!

 

 

STEP 9. SERUM | ☼/☽

As mentioned at the beginning of this post, a Japanese beauty brand KOSÉ invented the first-ever beauty serum in the world and Japanese women have been loving serums ever since.

 

After the skin softened and moisturised, it’s time to tackle specific skin concerns like wrinkles or dehydration using serums.

 

In the typical Japanese skincare routine, a serum is often used for ageing care, brightening or hydration.

 

Serums have concentrated active ingredients, and they penetrate deeper than lotions. It will enhance the function of the skin and tackle the concern(s) you have.

 

You should choose, depending on your skin’s needs.

 

STEP 10. CREAM (or Emulsion, Nyueki) | ☼/☽

 

Finally, it is time to seal all the good ingredients your skin has just absorbed in the previous steps by applying some cream.  

 

 

Creams are quite rich and thick, and if this does not work well on your skin, you can use emulsion (乳液 – nyueki in Japanese), which is a lighter version of cream.

 

The purpose of cream (or emulsion) is:

 

* Seal the barrier and moisturise.

 

There are many types of creams, and it can be quite tricky to choose one. Some are designed with a focus on hydration, some on other concerns like wrinkles or brightening.

 

When choosing a cream/emulsion, you want to focus on your skin type first. Your skin type should help decide the weight of the cream you’re going to buy.

 

Questions to ask:

 

1. Rich or light?
2. Which specific concern to focus? (wrinkles, hydration, brightening etc.)

 

After choosing the texture, look for a particular concern you want to tackle and select a cream whose function helps resolve the issue.

 

 

STEP 11. EYE CARE | ☼/☽

 

I started to take care of the eye area properly around 30. However, if you start earlier, it’s even better! I got serious about eye care around 30 and started using some eye cream occasionally and sometimes none at all until quite recently. Ouch.

Over the past year or so, the eye area started to look like it needs proper care despite a balanced diet and a good skincare regime. and I think I could’ve been more consistent sooner. So, start early!

 

The eye area is very delicate and sensitive compared to the rest of the face and can get damaged relatively easily.

If your skin is dehydrated or you have a quite hectic lifestyle, then this would show especially around the eyes too. It is also said that ageing starts from the eyes and they show the age.

 

There are a few major concerns often seen around the eyes, and you should choose depending on your concern(s).

 

The most common concerns are fine wrinkles, dark circles, sagging, and there are many types of products to tackle those concerns.

 

The most important point is to:

 

* Make sure the area is hydrated and UV protected.

 

Dehydration and exposing to the Sun would lead to premature ageing and wrinkles.

You also want to have eye-specific masks, and this can be 2-3 times a week. The eye area is more delicate and needs a special type of care.

 

 

STEP 12. SUNSCREEN | ☼

 

Obviously, this is morning only but…

 

Japanese women swear by sunscreen.

❣️ related post:  Best Japanese Sunscreen for Every Skin Type & Flawless Skin

 

Even in the summer, they might wear long sleeves and in some cases put up an umbrella during the day to avoid the sun. It’s a little extreme, but in Japan, everyone knows the damage it can cause if you don’t do UV care.

 

Some people say 90% of visible signs of ageing are due to sun damage.

 

Even if it’s cloudy or raining, wear sunscreen because UV rays are still reaching us! On top of the regime day and night, you really want to make sure you wear sunscreen every day.

 

Otherwise, the sun will welcome fast ageing and all of your effort and money spent on expensive skincare products would go wasted.

 

Lastly

So 🙂

Hope you enjoyed the guide!

 

Please note that NOT all Japanese women follow all the steps shown above, but rather they tailor the steps to suit their skin type and particular concerns.

 

The ritual also changes as you age and by season too.

 

In my case, my steps can be as few as 4 (cleansing, lotion, serum and cream) to absolutely maxing out with showering & bath, double cleansing, toner, booster, lotion, masks, serum, cream, eye cream. For me, it’s more important to listen to my skin every day and treat it with what it needs at the time.

 

I’m pretty sure most Japanese women are like me so they keep shopping different types of products for different needs and seasons. And the quest never ends!

 

What I can assure you is that skincare is a national obsession in Japan and the industry is HUGE. The crazy obsession with perfecting the skin gives rise to constant innovations in the J-Beauty industry.

 

Our great grandmothers, grandmothers, and mothers have always taken good care of their skin.

 

For Japanese women, their approach to skincare has always been holistic for many generations. For them, skincare is a part of their daily routines & a way of life, and they start early.

 

It is a tradition, and it will continue to be so ❤️️

Try the Japanese way and let me know how you get on 😉